As it opens with the ebullient aroma of blackberries, allspice, fresh butterscotch Krimpets, dark leather, and wood polish, it becomes immediately apparent that this will be a sumptuous affair. Joining the initial symphony are notes of overripe banana, bay leaves, and cilantro. Given time to rest there are some further umami-like aromas hiding behind the earthiness and the butterscotch sweetness of those Krimpets is joined by a yellow-cake-with-vanilla-frosting sweetness, both distinct.
In the mouth it’s the flavor of blackberries that leads the way, with a healthy dose of black pepper accompanying them. The texture is surprisingly quotidian given the high proof and density of aromas on the nose but the flavors are bursting with richness. I’m at first tempted to say this drinks below its proof but suddenly the heat comes ratcheting back up and impressively maintains balance between the sweet pastry notes and the baking spice influence for an incredibly lengthy finish. Foregoing the typical dryness one finds in such high proof offerings, the finish instead brings a handful of the aforementioned tasting notes along for the ride: namely vanilla frosting, baking spice, fresh berries, and leather.
While the high heat does at times serve to distract from rather than enhance the experience, in fits and starts one is able to fully appreciate that there are a ton of well-developed flavors on display along with as significant and impressive a finish as I can think of in recent memory. While the average mouthfeel and the uneven heat represent two forgivable drawbacks, there are innumerable noteworthy aspects of this whiskey which make it an absolute homerun. If you were fortunate enough to win A. Smith Bowman Cask Strength bourbon batch #2 for a C-note via the brand’s lottery, consider it a grand slam.
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